From page 143 of 'The Triumph of Individual Style' by Carla Mason Mathis & Helen Villa Connor
In the book there are 7 color charts from which to choose eye, skin & hair colors. Each color is marked with one of 3 symbols: the sun (warm), the moon (cool), or sun/moon (warm/cool combination).
Anyhow, thought y'all might find it interesting.
What colors complete your palette?
Lets begin with color temperature.
Now it's time to go back to the Hue Family Color Charts and select colors from all the hue families that complement your natural coloring. By choosing colors that have the same color temperature and color value as your skin, hair, and eyes, which you determined on page 128, you will be able to create a color palette that will always be in harmony with you.
Sun/Moon symbol- Warm/Cool Combination
You might have a combination of temperature-warm skin, cool eyes, warm/cool hair. Or you might have chosen a shade or two that have the combination sun/moon symbol-that means it can be considered both warm and cool. In either case, your color temperature is both warm and cool as in the woman in The Plum by Manet. She has warm red hair and cool pink-violet skin.
If you naturally have both warm and cool coloring, you can choose both warm and cool colors from all the hue families. Another way to wear warm and cool in combination is to wear gold jewelry (warm) when you wear cool colors, and silver jewelry (cool) when you wear warm colors.
Sun symbol- Warm
If your coloring is all warm, you can safely choose colors from all the psychologically warm hue families (red, orange, and yellow) regardless of their relative temperature within the hue family.
In Fragonard's painting, A Yong Girl Reading, we see one such warm based coloring: yellow-brown or ivory skin, golden brown hair, and we've taken the liberty to imagine she also has golden brown eyes! If you wish to wear a psychologically cool color (from the violet, blue, or green hue families), choose the members of these hue families that have the warm relative temperature; and wear them in combination with your reds, oranges, and/or yellows.
Moon symbol- Cool
You might have all cool-based coloring, such as Madame Michel-Levy by Manet- Violet-rose-brown skin, gray-blue eyes, cool grayish brown hair.
If your coloring is cool, you can safely choose colors from all the psychologically cool hue families regardless of their relative temperature within the hue family. If you wish to wear a psychologically warm color, choose the members of these hue families that have the cool relative temperature, and wear them in combination with your greens, blues, and violets.
It then goes on to choosing your value range, contrast & intensity levels & a lot more.
I thought I'd add this picture from the book. It's not a great photo, but it'll do I think!
In the text above they talk about if you're warm & want to wear psychologically cool colors that you should wear the relatively warm shades of those hues & vice versa if you're cool. This is the pure pigment color wheel from the book (TOIS) that shows the psychologically cool colors on the left & the psychologically warm colors on the right- along with relatively warmer cool shades & relatively cooler warm shades. Notice there are no relatively cooler orange shades.
the Warm color symbol is the Sun & the Cool color symbol is the Moon.
ETA: Thought I might as well add some of the text from the book (TOIS) explaining the color wheel above.
Artists frequently categorize colors as warm or cool. On our Pure Pigment Color Wheel, we show that we have two ways of talking about color temperature which is defined as the warmth or coolness of a hue:
- There is psychological temperature which is more commonly known, and
- There is relative temperature which is more subtle but is just as important to know for developing an individualized palette of colors for your wardrobe.
Our experience with the golden rays of a sunrise or the warmth of sunlight at noon, the red flames of a blazing fire or the yellow glow of its embers, psychologically suggest that the reds, the oranges, and the yellows are warm hues. These colors are also commonly regarded as aggressive, unabashedly forward or at least highly visible. On the other hand, our experience of shade in a deep green forest, the soothing blue of a cloudless sky, the cold splash of an ocean wave, the violet shadows of distant mountain tops all psychologically suggest that the greens, the blues, and the violets are cool hues. These colors are also often thought of as calming, distant and quiet.
As you can see psychological temperature divides the Pure Pigment Color Wheel in half with the so-called warm reds, oranges, and yellows to the right side, and the so called cool greens, blues, and violets to the left.
When we compare the warmth and coolness of a hue relative to other hues within the same family, we are talking about relative temperature. Notice that we have shown the relative temperature of each pigment either with a sun symbol indicating it is warmer than the other family members, or a moon indicating that it is cooler.
Remember, relative temperature concerns only members of the same hue family, so the sun and moon symbols appear on both sides of the color wheel. Yet to see relative temperature, you must be aware of psychological temperature. To understand what we mean, first look at the Greens and the Violets.
Although placed on the cool side of the color wheel, the Greens can seem warmer or cooler because green is commonly seen as a mixture of yellow (a psychologically warm hue), and blue (a psychologically cool hue). So a green that appears more yellow when compared to other greens, for example Sap Green, is relatively warmer; and one that appears bluer, for example Transparent Viridian, is relatively cooler. Likewise, when we think of the Violets, we often think of them as composed of a psychologically warm hue, red, and a cool hue, blue. So a violet that leans toward red, such as Thio Violet, is relatively warm; and toward blue, such as Parma, is relatively cool.
Now look at the rest of the hue families: In the Reds we see that of the six pure pigments. Three of them lean toward orange and so are relatively warmer than the other three, which lean toward cool violet.
Notice that all the Oranges are warm, because we often think of orange as composed of red and yellow, both psychologically warm hues. Oranges are in the depths of warmth.
Like the Oranges, the Blues are in the depths of their color territory, which might lead you to believe that all blues are cool. On the contrary, there are blues that can be seen as relatively warm; one of these is Manganese Blue. Manganese is the warmest of the blues, because it leans towards green. Green is quite versatile in its influence on the relative temperature of a hue. On our color wheel, did you notice that of the five greens, three of them are considered relatively warm? Because of the yellow influence brought in through green, Manganese is considered a relatively warm blue. On the other hand, when the already warm Yellows lean toward green-for example the Lemon Yellow-they appear cool because of the blue influence brought in through green!